Dimitsana 1: Before the Tannery

The open air museum of water power at Dimitsana is a remarkable site, worthy of several posts. This post covers the first part of the site, leading up to the tannery, and including some stuff about fulling, and some introductory stuff about water and energy.

Pictures tell this story better than words…

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The information boards at Dimitsana are some of the best I have ever encountered.
The information boards at Dimitsana are some of the best I have ever encountered.

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This is a Raki still.
This is a Raki still.

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Leaving Olympia

A final coda to my post about Olympia (https://aspiblog.wordpress.com/2014/10/14/ancient-olympia/), a lively and amusing version of the story of how the ancient Olympics got started is told by Tom Holt in the novel Olympia. Any book with his name on the cover will be a good read.

After an excellent stay at the Hotel Europa, we set off as intended just before 10 o’clock. For the next hour things did not go quite as planned…

First we could not find our way on to the road from Olympia to Tripoli as intended, and then having got on to a suitable route we picked up a hitchhiker which delayed things further.

However, we still arrived at our first stop of the day, Dimitsana, in good time to go round the open air museum of water power.

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The Alfios Dam - this river most emphatically does flow all year round.
The Alfios Dam – this river most emphatically does flow all year round.
Part of the station building at Olympia - sadly it served its last customer some years ago.
Part of the station building at Olympia – sadly it served its last customer some years ago.
I think this underplays the excellence of the hotel!
I think this underplays the excellence of the hotel!

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The map of Greece even marks Tseria - nearly as remarkable as Fakenham being marked on a map of Europe!
The map of Greece even marks Tseria – nearly as remarkable as Fakenham being marked on a map of Europe!

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This map shows all of Greece.
This map shows all of Greece.

me pictures from this portion of the day…

Mosaics

Between those on display at my parents holiday home, the stuff at cape Tainaros and a good mosaic at Olympia I reckon I have enough to justify providing a collection of mosaic pictures…

The first four photos are of mosaics from the Roman villa near the end of mainland Greece!
The first four photos are of mosaics from the Roman villa near the end of mainland Greece!

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These are the shots I took and kept of the mosaic on display at Olympia
These are the shots I took and kept of the mosaic on display at Olympia

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This one focusses on the central area of the mosaic.
This one focusses on the central area of the mosaic.
This mosaic is in the bathroom at Tseria
This mosaic is in the bathroom at Tseria

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Mosaic postcards on display at Tseria
Mosaic postcards on display at Tseria

Ancient Olympia

This is the site of the original Olympics, held here from 776 BC until the Roman Emperor and christian fanatic Theodosius put a stop to them in 393AD – and it would be 1500 years before they were revived. However, this was not just the original sporting hotbed, there are countless other splendid things to see here. As usual I have some excellent photos for you…

It is a shame that this viaduct has seen its last passenger, but there is no chance of this railway being reopened.
It is a shame that this viaduct has seen its last passenger, but there is no chance of this railway being reopened.

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This arch marks the entrance to the stadium.
This arch marks the entrance to the stadium.

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Part of the starting line.
Part of the starting line.

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Aerial view of the whole stadium
Aerial view of the whole stadium

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A Birthday Party

I am currently in a hotel room in Olympia, having visited one of the most famous of all Greek sites and swum in the hotel pool, but this post is about yesterday (today will come later – probably after supper). Susan Shimmin, who helped my parents to arrange the purchase of their Greek house turned 70 yesterday, and I was among those invited to the party. This featured a very pretty walk between Stoupa and a place called Kalliope’s. Some of us, including me, did the walk twice, while at the other extreme were those who did not walk at all. Back at Stoupa there was a royal spread of wonderful Greek food and then the unveiling of the cake – and what a cake it was!

Even though I decamped shortly after the cake was unveiled I have some fine photos from the day…

The beefed up flip flops in which did both the walks I have thus far mentioned in my Greek blog posts
The beefed up flip flops in which did both the walks I have thus far mentioned in my Greek blog posts

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Getting pictures of butterflies is not easy, but this one is an unequivocal success.
Getting pictures of butterflies is not easy, but this one is an unequivocal success.

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This was the only LIVE millipede that I saw.
This was the only LIVE millipede that I saw.

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These distance signs (3 photos worth) are fun but definitely not to be trusted!
These distance signs (3 photos worth) are fun but definitely not to be trusted!

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This is surely the smuggest moggy you have ever seen, surveying the world from its comfortable, dog-proof perch!
This is surely the smuggest moggy you have ever seen, surveying the world from its comfortable, dog-proof perch!
For the walk from Kalliope's to Stoupa there were canoeists keeping pace with us.
For the walk from Kalliope’s to Stoupa there were canoeists keeping pace with us.

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The canoeists were far from the only people put in boats.
The canoeists were far from the only people put in boats.

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"Who's the slowest of us?" "Torto is" Rudyard Kipling's version of how the Tortoise got its name!
“Who’s the slowest of us?” “Torto is”
Rudyard Kipling’s version of how the Tortoise got its name!
Yacht and canoes heading in opposite direction
Yacht and canoes heading in opposite direction

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This striking edifice is the Stoupa Cultural Centre (the replica Byantine church is definitely ghastlier!)
This striking edifice is the Stoupa Cultural Centre (the replica Byantine church is definitely ghastlier!)
Stoupa Bay and it is so clear that you can see the cold water springs that feed into it clearly.
Stoupa Bay and it is so clear that you can see the cold water springs that feed into it clearly.
A close up of a cold water spring site
A close up of a cold water spring site
The cake from above
The cake from above
A side view of the cake.
A side view of the cake.

The Inner Mani

The Inner Mani’s particular version of the very traditional Greek habits of feud and vendetta led to the building by anyone who could of fortified tower houses. They were defending themselves against each other, much like the border reavers of Northumberland with their bastles. As usual, I have plenty of pictures for you…

This spectacular rock formation is known as the Frying Pan.
This spectacular rock formation is known as the Frying Pan.

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No this is not a ruined amphitheatre - folk were desperate enough to cultivate this.
No this is not a ruined amphitheatre – folk were desperate enough to cultivate this.

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Walking to the end of mainland Greece – Cape Tainaros

In ancient times this was home to a temple and death oracle of Poseidon (the ruins of which can still be seen), and was a notorious spot for ship wrecks. At least one reasonably eminent Roman had a villa here as there are some old mosaics left from his tenure. The end of the Greek mainland is signalled by lighthouse, which is moderately attractive. Being in the driest most arid part of mainland Greece, the path is as one would expect bare and rocky, but I was able to walk it in beefed up flip flops.

This region also contains my nomination for the most desperate attempt at cultivation I have yet to see evidence of – indescribable, so wait for the photo…

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This delicate flower grows in the roughest conditions imaginable.
This delicate flower grows in the roughest conditions imaginable.

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My first sight of the lighthouse.
My first sight of the lighthouse.

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Making use of the one resource they have in abundance.
Making use of the one resource they have in abundance.

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This mosaic is spectacular.
This mosaic is spectacular.

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Byzantine Churches

Venturing into the inner Mani (the town of Areopoli marks the boundary between the inner and outer Mani – think Men of Kent and Kentish Men) we saw some very splendid Byzantine churches (and some truly ghastly modern replicas). In the only one we could get inside there were some interesting frescos, and all featured some fine examples of decorative brickwork using Roman style bricks. I have some very fine photographs of these extraordinary buildings…

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A close up of some decorative brickwork
A close up of some decorative brickwork

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Unfortunately a bag of builders materials prevented me from showing the whole church from this angle - we are in Greece after all!
Unfortunately a bag of builders materials prevented me from showing the whole church from this angle – we are in Greece after all!

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An external fresco of a Madonna and child - this took some serious editing.
An external fresco of a Madonna and child – this took some serious editing.

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Here the original alabaster obviously fell out, and has been replaced by rubble.
Here the original alabaster obviously fell out, and has been replaced by rubble.

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Greece 8: Methoni

Although the castle at Methoni was closed by the time we got there, we were able to see a lot of it from the outside. Paddling in the sea I was a little annoyed not to have equipped myself for swimming because the water was lovely. Still before going back to Tseria tonight I will be able to have a swim at Stoupa. Methoni castle was built by the Venetians when they were a force to be reckoned with, and features stoneworked lions of St Mark. As usual I have some splendid pictures for you…

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Greece 7: Lunch between sites.

Having finished exploring the remains of ancient Messene we repaired to a guard post on the old walls. These walls, a circuit of nine kilometres, were built by Epaminondas of Thebes after he had liberated the Messenians from four centuries of Spartan rule as an insurance policy should the Spartans try to recapture Messenia. This did not happen, because within a generation Philip of Macedon was in charge.

Just a few photos from this location…

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